 “The universe is like walking into an empty room” says the improbably named Peter Starr of Warrumbungle Observatory. Part of a strong astronomy community nestled amongst an impressive jumble of spires and crags known as the Warrumbungles in the north east of NSW, Starr (“yes that is my real name”) conducts nightly stargazing tours using any one of his five powerful telescopes.
Apparently the best latitude to view our night skies lies at 30 degrees and the Warrumbungles Ranges near Coonabarabran offer just the right combination of high elevation, low humidity, clean air and a non-turbulent atmosphere for viewing clarity. Indeed the area is home to Siding Springs Observatory, Australia’s largest centre for optical astronomy research.
A project joint funded by the UK Government, Siding Springs houses several telescopes including the Anglo-Australia Telescope dome, an 8 storey observatory housing a giant 3.9 metre mirror. Astronomers from all over the world come to visit to probe the mysteries of the night sky. Although closed to the public at night, visitors are welcome to get up close to the dome to view the telescope from behind the glass in the fourth floor viewing gallery.
The complex also houses an Exploratory Centre where there are hands on activities and where visitors can learn fascinating information about the universe, the solar system and the kinds of activities undertaken by the astronomers at the site. There is also a gift shop and café.
Back under the stars at Warrumbungles Observatory Libra’s scales, Scorpio’s tail and Sagitarius’ quiver are all revealed, our host brandishing his laser pointer like a jedi knight. Over the next month at different times the other signs of the zodiac will appear in different parts of the sky.
A former manager and observer at Siding Springs, Peter Starr shows us how to navigate by the stars and points out any number of features in the dark sky such as the teapot, the emu and all different kinds of stars of all different colours (though apparently we humble humans cannot make these colours out).
He also points out Venus, sometimes called the evening star where we’re assured that if the 400 degree heat doesn’t get you then the amount of pressure will totally flatten you. If that’s not enough our guide goes on, there is also the prospect of heavy showers of acid rain. As the first star I see tonight I make a wish that I never have to go to Venus.
Warrumbungle Observatory includes a fourteen inch telescope which is the largest telescope available to tourists in Coonabarabran. From here we can view mighty Jupiter, another inhospitable gaseous environment, with its incredible 63 (known) moons and which looks good enough to eat with its rice cracker-like appearance, chocolate stripes and all seemingly close enough to help myself.All roads to Coonabarabran from major regional towns in the area take in a virtual solar system 38 millions times smaller than outer space. Giant roadside billboards feature three-dimensional planets and a host of associated facts and figures.
The area is also home to the Warrumbungles National Park a dramatic area of forested ridges, barren spires and deep gorges. The park takes its name from the local Gamilaroi word meaning “crooked mountains”. Bushwalkers descend on the park to take advantage of the wide range of short walks and overnight hikes.
The Grand High Tops trail is renowned as one of the top ten great walks in Australia and features the bizarre, jagged rock formation known as “The Breadknife” rising one hundred metres above the ground. I gasp with exhilaration from the summit at Lugh’s Throne where families stop to picnic and discuss the merits of home-made compared to restaurant pizza.
The park is a haven for nature lovers with plenty of wildlife including over 150 species of bird, emus, kangaroos and even the elusive koala bear. The park also has its own visitor centre which provides information on the area’s Aboriginal and European history and its unique biodiversity as well as gifts and souvenirs.
Before turning in back at our campsite, I sit wide-eyed under a blinding sea of vibrant stars. The sky is dark, clear and has a distinct shimmer to it as though decorated with billions of fairy lights. I try to contemplate being a tiny part of one amongst millions of galaxies. A visit to the Warrumbungles won’t make you feel any more important but it can sure put some perspective on your place in the universe.
Travel notes
Getting there: Coonabarabran is located approximately 445km from Sydney, about a six hour drive. Countrylink has daily train and bus connections. There is a wide variety of accommodation in and around the town.
Warrumbungles and Siding Springs Observatories are both located on the Timor Road toward the national park.
Warrumbungle Observatory is open 7 days and two tours are conducted at night depending on the time of year. To book call 0488-425-112.
Siding Springs is open 7 days a week, Monday to Friday 9.30am-4pm, Saturday, Sunday and public holidays 10am-2pm.
Warrumbungle National Park is located about 36km from Coonabarabran. There is a National Park Visitor Centre in Coonabarabran and a centre in the park itself. There are several camping options available including powered sites and hot showers at Camp Blackman.
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