From the sparkling
blue ocean bays, to the mountainous and rugged "lost cities" of
Mesoamerican civilisation, the state of Oaxaca offers a combination of
adventure and relaxation in a single place.
Tucked away in the southernmost end of Mexico, the state of Oaxaca (wah-hah-ka) is one of Central America's hidden gems. Bordered by the states of Guerrero, Puebla, Veracruz, and Chiapas, as well as the Pacific Ocean to the south, Oaxaca is home to over 3.5 million people, and boasts a vibrant, rich, diverse culture. And though travelling aspect may be challenging at times, the rewards are certainly worth the effort.
The Adventure of Getting There
Getting to (and travelling within) Oaxaca is an adventure in itself. One of the challenges of Mexico travel is the lack of structure in airline/bus/train timetables and schedules (everyone seems to operate on "Mexico Time", which can mean anything from 5 minutes to 5 hours). Catching any outbound flight from Mexico City Airport, for example, may require a bit of wandering and general detective work to determine which gate your flight may actually depart from (hint: it's rarely, if ever, the same gate number printed on your boarding pass).
In most cases, your departure gate will be announced only a few minutes prior to departure, resulting in you and your fellow passengers (and even the baggage/ground crew) making a mad scramble to your gate (which, according, to Murphy's Law will always be on the opposite side of the terminal).
But the travelling "fun" isn't confined to the country's major airports. Upon arriving in many of the regional airfields like Oaxaca City, you'll likely come face-to-face with one of the more puzzling aspects of Mexican travel: the security/customs archway. After collecting your checked baggage from the singular carousel, passengers are ushered to a narrow archway containing two lights (one red, one green), and a big button. As if competing in some bizarre TV game show, passengers are required to push the button, which randomly activates one of the lights in the archway. If the green light illuminates, you may pass through the checkpoint without question. If the red light comes on, however, then you must present all baggage for a slow, thorough, item-by-item search, followed by a slow, thorough line of questioning. Though the "official" story is that the lights are randomly activated, the truth is that very few "locals" ever see a red light, if you catch my drift.
Oaxaca City
Steeped in history, and filled with architectural "must-visits" like the Catedral de Santo Domingo, Oaxaca City offers adventure for all levels of traveller. Upon arrival in the city (a short taxi ride from the airport), a trip to the Zocalo (town square/plaza) is a must; specifically, the marketplace of Mercado Benito Juarez. The Mexican equivalent of Melbourne's Queen Victoria Markets (though far more rustic), the Mercado offers a massive variety of foods, handicrafts, clothing, livestock and entertainment (many times all in the same stall!). Shoppers and curio-seekers will be in their element; exploring cavernous rooms filled with piles of colourful Mexican clothing and fabrics, sampling from the wide variety of organic spices/foods/chilies, or trawling through the thousands of handmade trinkets on offer, with prices all negotiable (bargaining down is part of the culture).
There are two must-buy items when visiting Oaxaca City: 1) The famed Oaxacan/Mexican chocolate (arguably the best-tasting chocolate in the world) and 2) the exquisite, hand-carved wooden Alebrijes (Ah-lay-bree-haze). These bright, colourful carvings are modelled after a variety of mythical beings and nearly every animal under the sun, from lizards, turtles, flowers, monsters, dragons, dogs and more. Best of all, most are thoughtfully constructed with the tourist in mind (most can be taken apart for safe packing in your baggage).
After a good session of fossicking, settle down for an authentic (and delicious) Mexican lunch of tlayudas; a big, crunchy tortilla covered with any combination of refried beans, cabbage, meat (shredded beef, chicken, chorizo or pork), Oaxacan cheese, and salsa – cooked over hot coals or a grill / comal. On occasion, you may also get a generous spread of Mole Negro or Mole Poblano. Mole (moh-lay) is a special sauce prepared with a combination of dried/char-grilled chilies, ground nuts, seeds, spices, Mexican chocolate, salt, and any number of other ingredients. It can take hours (or even days) to prepare a proper mole, with very few chefs willing to give up their own secret recipe. Oaxaca is famous for their mole sauces -- hence the state's nickname "Land of the Seven Moles" – so you should take any opportunity to sample the delightful dishes featuring a mole.
The more adventurous traveller may wish to sample a local snack called Chapulines; a delicacy composed of grasshoppers fried with chilies, garlic and lemon juice. Chapulines are available in large or small sizes, and are thought to have been used as food for over 3000 years. (And what do they taste like, you ask? Well, they taste like…er….fried grasshoppers.). But not bad, really.
When planning your day, keep in mind that most shops, businesses and, well everything really, close for siesta (nap/rest) between 2-4pm. In reality, this can extend from 1:00-4:30. During siesta, the city can be like a ghost town – and if you find yourself hungry (or in desperate need of something to buy) you'll be out of luck. So plan your time wisely (or, simply go with the flow, find a nice, shady tree or hammock and take a nap like everyone else!)
The Ruins of Monte Albán
A few kilometres outside of Oaxaca City are the archaeological ruins of Monte Albán – the former capital of the Zapotec & Mixtec empire (circa 600 and 900 AD). Constructed on a flattened mountain-top around 500 BC, and reminiscent of many of the lost cities of the Maya and Aztecs, Monte Albán has a magnificent collection of stone carvings, pyramids, buildings, monuments, and, of course, wandering vendors. On any given day, the vendors will outnumber the tourists by at least 5 to 1, with just about every vendor offering "unique historical artefacts" for sale (usually coins, masks or mini pyramids made of malachite – most having no historical significance at all). Regardless, you can be certain that anything you buy from the vendor (or taxi driver, or kid on the street, etc) will be marked up by at least 500% compared to the prices from the vendors in the Zocalo.
The ruins of Monte Albán are a real treat to explore, with hidden passageways, intricate carvings, unexplained buildings (like the mysterious Ball Court), and sweeping views of the surrounding valleys and ranges. One mystery that I failed to solve: the doorways and interior tunnels of the buildings are quite low (suggesting that the Zapotecs/Mixtecs were a very short people) yet each stair on the exterior of the pyramids rises nearly half a metre (suggesting they had massively long legs). Whatever their stature, the people of Monte Alban certainly built an impressive city.
The Coast
A short plane "hop" down the mountain from Oaxaca City, the southern coast of Oaxaca has some of the most beautiful coastline in Mexico. With crystal-blue waters, pristine beaches (untouched by human "progress") and breathtaking natural forests and vegetation, the coast provides a tranquil and almost surreal experience for the traveller looking to "get away from it all". Among the standout cities/villages in the area are the Bahias de Huatulco, a collection of tranquil bays & beaches. Once touted as "a future Acapulco" the areas surrounding Huatulco were generously fitted with many of the modern conveniences that are generally lacking on other parts of Central America (fresh water, internet connections, electricity, outdoor plumbing, etc). There's even a championship golf course in the area, offering fully-negotiable green fees (and one of the best-tasting cheeseburgers I've ever had!). Alas, this master-planned region has yet to benefit from an increase in tourism, so it remains a sleepy, relaxing haven. At least until the monthly cruise ship arrives in the harbour (at which point, the prices for everything from food to handicrafts immediately quadruple).
So, whether you're after a relaxing Central American holiday, or a rugged sightseeing adventure, Oaxaca offers a little something for everyone.
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From the sparkling
blue ocean bays, to the mountainous and rugged "lost cities" of
Mesoamerican civilisation, the state of Oaxaca offers a combination of
adventure and relaxation in a single place.
