Kuala Lumpur - For Families, Sports Lovers and Adventurers
Written by Richard Fellner
Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur
"This is ridiculous", I thought, as I plunged my feet into the luke-warm water of the makeshift kiddie pool, and watched as hundreds of tiny guppy-like fish swarmed around my ankles like a school of hungry piranha. As they began to gently nibble between my toes, life in the market around me continued in a frenetic pace: hawkers yelled out specials, shoppers negotiated prices and kids chased each other from stall to stall.
"It's all about reflexology" said a friendly chap sitting next to me, munching on his Corn in a Cup (a popular market snack). "The fish eat away the dead skin, activate trigger points in your feet, and improve your well being."
All I know is that they tickle. A lot.
If sitting ankle-deep in a "Fish Spa" while surrounded by market stalls seems a bit odd, well, it is. But it's one of the truly marvelous experiences that makes Kuala Lumpur a real gem. And while many tourists view 'KL' as just a stopover on the way to somewhere else, there are some really magnificent sights and adventures that make it a destination in its own right.
Take the shopping. While you've probably been to a "Chinatown" in any number of large cities in the world, and perhaps dabbled in buying the cheap knock-off "Rollexx Watches" or "Praada bags", nothing can really prepare you for the KL's Chinatown district. With hundreds of stalls -- offering a variety of knick-knacks, souvenirs, and food ranging from chicken satay to frog porridge -- it can be a bit overwhelming to the uninitiated. Not the least of which would be the hawkers' incessant shouting of "SirSirComeInGoodSunglassesBestPrice" or the very common "MissMissNiceBagComeLookGenuineCopy". (That's right, the age-old "Knock-Off" has been creatively re-branded as a "Genuine Copy" – you've gotta admire a good sales tactic!)
Despite the noise, the buying process can be a lot of fun. In one instance, a salesman was deftly showing my wife a "handmade" leather bag -- waving a lighter's flame all along the surface to verify its authenticity (a great feature if my wife takes the handbag into a volcano). As the three of us realised that a sale may be imminent, our brains went into instant negotiation mode. The man whipped out a calculator (a common practice) and showed us his "best" price for the bag. We respond by typing in a price around 75% less. This cat-and-mouse game goes on for a bit -- we feign disinterest, he reiterates the bag's features and quality, we pretend to walk away, etc.-- until he grudgingly accepts a final price… at which point we quickly add "…and throw in THAT bag too". He shrugs, we shake hands, and a deal is done. (Despite all this, we both know he is still making a killing. But it's all part of the fun.) One tip: be sure to shop around – that "one-of-a-kind" bag or wristwatch will certainly have a few "cousins" at the very next stall!
While bargain shopping is an adventure in itself, KL offers a number of other adventures for sightseers and visitors. One great day-trip is the Batu Caves, a natural cave formation on a cliff-side 13km north of the city. Said to be around 400 million years old, the caves are one of the most popular Hindu shrines outside India, and are the focal point of the annual Thaipusam festival which attracts over 1.5 million pilgrims at a time! (the queue for the restrooms must be unbearable).
Braving the 272 steps to the top, we were greeted by scores of macaque monkeys – most looking to grab a free meal from unsuspecting tourists. But they are a welcome distraction from the tiring climb. The views from the top of the steps were stunning, while the various paintings, temples and rock formations within the caves were certainly a highlight of the trip.
There are many other shrines, temples and mosques worth visiting in KL. One of our favourites was the Thean Hou Temple. One of the largest temples in Asia, it features beautiful pagoda rooftops, ornate sculptures and statues, a walk-through garden with all the animals of the Zodiac, a massive turtle pond, and more stunning city views.
For the kids, you can't go past the Kuala Lumpur Bird Park, adjacent to the Perdana Lake Gardens. Housing over 5000 birds, it is the largest bird park in South-East Asia. Alternately, check out the nearby Butterfly Park, featuring over 6,000 butterflies flying freely in a simulated natural rainforest environment.
Getting around KL
Driving in KL is best left to the professionals. While the city has the usual modern-day road rules, the locals don't seem to care (or know) about them. So hiring a rental car can be like taking your life into your own hands. A far more relaxing (and enjoyable) option is to use a dedicated touring company, like Bousted Travel. It's like having a personal chauffeur and tour-guide. Our guides from Bousted were friendly, knowledgeable and always very prompt. Highly recommended, and quite affordable.
Alternately, the city has a fantastic network of trains, busses and even a monorail (albeit heavily-laden with advertising – even the stations have sponsors!). Taxis are a relatively cheap way to get around, but like many other cities in the world, the drivers can spot a dupe a mile away. So be sure to do two things before getting into any KL taxi: A) ensure that the meter is on (and working!), and B) negotiate a price to your destination. This will help you avoid many sticky situations.
Golf, Family Activities and Accommodation
Malaysia is a well kept secret in the golfing world. Those "in the know" regard many of its world-class courses as a true challenge, while the mixture of spectacular scenery in the mountains, rainforests and sea-side settings is, to some, second to none.
The best part is that a few of the golf resorts also cater to families and general leisure-seekers. With a full complement of activities, rides, swimming pools and more, the entire family can stay entertained for days!
A regular host of the Malaysian Open and other international events, The Saujana Golf and Country Club has been voted Malaysia's Number 1 Golf Club, and has been named among the 100 best golf courses outside the U.S. It features two Ronald Fream-designed championship courses: The Palm Course ('The Cobra') which offers an extremely challenging layout (including the par-3 2nd -- rated the Most Difficult hole in Malaysia), and the Bunga Raya Course ('The Crocodile'), a more open and serene layout – yet equally challenging. The courses are both amazing and beautiful. Painstakingly manicured and conditioned (some areas are even hand-trimmed!), they felt like courses suited to a PGA Tour event.
They're also brutal. My caddie spoke only a handful of words in English, but one phrase that she repeated after many of my tee shots was "fifty-fifty"; which is a common saying to indicate the odds of finding your wayward tee shot. Indeed, some of these holes are so difficult that I found myself muttering "fifty-fifty" prior to even teeing off.
Playing these courses requires accuracy, a bit of luck, and – when the weather is hot – a bit of endurance (be sure to stay hydrated!). But they are an absolute treat to play, and I highly recommend them both.
After a long day on the course (or a long day shopping!) the spa at the newly-opened The Club at Saujana is pure opulence. From the moment you walk into the spa you'll realise that no expense has been spared to make this a truly heavenly experience. From the ornate fittings and fixtures, to the mahogany furniture, to the bath tub filled with rose petals, you'll be able to relax and soak up the experience. There are couples and singles rooms available, and a complete menu of spa services to suit your needs. (Tip: try the Balinese massage which starts with a foot scrub, followed by a massage to relax body and mind.)
The entire Saujana Resort is a magnificent, world-class facility, offering tennis, squash, two pools (one with swim-up bar!), and a bounty of other luxury amenities that suit couples, families or those looking to just get away. The entire resort makes you feel like a VIP.
For a family adventure of a different style, be sure to check out the Genting Highlands: City of Entertainment -- an integrated resort and family destination center perched high on a mountain peak above the cloud-line. Featuring 6 hotels (over 10,000 guest rooms) a massive 38-acre family theme park, a mammoth Las-Vegas-style casino, over 90 dining outlets and a whopping 80 retail stores, there is something there for everyone.
The Ronald Fream-designed golf course (part of the Awana Genting Golf & Country Resort) offers a drastically different experience from other KL courses. The cool, crisp mountain air (a welcome respite from the humidity of KL) does wonders for the spirit, and the breathtaking scenery almost makes you forget about the narrow, winding fairways flanked by towering rainforest trees and golf-ball-grabbing jungle shrubs. The rough (known as "cowgrass") is a broad-leafed indigenous grass that is very difficult to play from (trust me!). The bent-grass greens are firm and speedy -- difficult to hold from approach, and even more difficult to read. And if that wasn't enough, golfers also have to contend with the forest's ever-watchful, mischievous monkeys, who've been known to snag everything from balls to food and even mobile phones.
It all adds up to a marvelous golfing experience. The standout hole would have to be the par-3 fourth hole. Beautiful and challenging, it features a narrow, firm green guarded by a massive pond in the front, a massive valley in the back, and trouble left and right. Walk away with anything close to a par and consider yourself lucky.
For families, the theme park is truly a must-visit. Water slides, roller coasters, and dozens of kid-friendly activities will keep the little ones busy for hours on end. And the casino & entertainment area is a real marvel – with a roller coaster running through the casino, a dodge-em cars area, indoor archery, and, believe it or not, an indoor snow centre with real snow, it's as if the designers took all the best bits of Las Vegas and condensed it into one mega-casino. While there, be sure to check out the outdoor adventure course & team-building facility, and take a ride on the scenic sky tram.
Travel Notes:
Many airlines service Kuala Lumpur and Malaysia. Malaysia Airlines, Jetstar, Air Asia X, Tiger, Emirates and others offer a variety of options direct or via Singapore (Note that routes change often so check online, or contact your travel agent for information)
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